Spring weekend

"None of us is okay and all of us are fine. It's not just one way. We are walking, talking paradoxes." Pema Chodron

Agatha Christie loved to surf.
"Oh, it was heaven!" she wrote in her memoirs. "Nothing like it. Nothing like that rushing through the water at what seemed to you a speed of about two hundred miles an hour; all the way in from the far distant raft, until you arrived, gently slowing down, on the beach, and foundered among the soft flowing waves."
And the Museum of British Surfing has opened in Devon. Some surfers used coffin lids as surfboards.

1919 photo ©Museum of British Surfing

Tom Waits, singing "Young at Heart":

1 comment:

  1. I yam too afeared of the ocean to try - but I love to watch.
    And surfers? Sexy.